Free Ebook Plucked: A History of Hair Removal (Biopolitics), by Rebecca M. Herzig
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Plucked: A History of Hair Removal (Biopolitics), by Rebecca M. Herzig
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From the clamshell razors and homemade lye depilatories used in colonial America to the diode lasers and prescription pharmaceuticals available today, Americans have used a staggering array of tools to remove hair deemed unsightly, unnatural, or excessive. This is true especially for women and girls; conservative estimates indicate that 99% of American women have tried hair removal, and at least 85% regularly remove hair from their faces, armpits, legs, and bikini lines. How and when does hair become a problem—what makes some growth “excessive”? Who or what separates the necessary from the superfluous? In Plucked, historian Rebecca Herzig addresses these questions about hair removal. She shows how, over time, dominant American beliefs about visible hair changed: where once elective hair removal was considered a “mutilation” practiced primarily by “savage” men, by the turn of the twentieth century, hair-free faces and limbs were expected for women. Visible hair growth—particularly on young, white women—came to be perceived as a sign of political extremism, sexual deviance, or mental illness. By the turn of the twenty-first century, more and more Americans were waxing, threading, shaving, or lasering themselves smooth. Herzig’s extraordinary account also reveals some of the collateral damages of the intensifying pursuit of hair-free skin. Moving beyond the experiences of particular patients or clients, Herzig describes the surprising histories of race, science, industry, and medicine behind today's hair-removing tools. Plucked is an unsettling, gripping, and original tale of the lengths to which Americans will go to remove hair.
- Sales Rank: #783312 in Books
- Published on: 2015-01-16
- Released on: 2015-01-16
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 9.30" h x 1.00" w x 6.40" l, .0 pounds
- Binding: Hardcover
- 280 pages
Review
"Herzig unites anthropology, sociology, history and psychology in this gripping study... Plucked is an important work, not least because it is so very readable. What's more, Herzig is angry, and anger is the first step towards social change."-Times Higher Education
"Few people would link the forced beard shaving of Guantanamo Bay detainees with Gwyneth 'I work a seventies vibe' Paltrow, but historian Rebecca Herzig connects the dots in her new book, Plucked."-The Toronto Globe and Mail
“Plucked moves beyond current discourse, which is limited to whether shaving and waxing indicate subjugation to social norms or freedom and the practices associated with it. This interdisciplinary study, which unites sociology, anthropology, and history, draws on books, letters, advertisements, magazines, and contemporary interviews to show that determinations of whether hair is ‘excessive’ or ‘peculiar’ are subjective and flexible, dependent on the person doing the looking, and subject to change based on political, scientific, technological, military, and economic shifts.” -Women's Review of Books
"Plucked is a fascinating look into a largely untaught part of our history...meticulously researched."-Bust Magazine
“Her forthcoming book, Plucked: A History of Hair Removal in America, to be published by NYU Press in January 2015, examines techniques that Americans have used to remove their own hair, and the array of social force – including beliefs about beauty and self-determination – that create expectations about hair and hair removal.”-Sun Journal
"Humanity has used an impressive array of tools to remove hair. This is, biologically speaking, pretty strange. Most of earth's mammals possess luxuriant fur. Only one seeks to remove it. Rebecca Herzig's delightful history explains why: smooth skin is a cultural imperative."-The Economist
"This is an interesting, serious, and meticulously researched contribution to American history, offering a variety of insights around key topics in the evolution of attitudes and practices relating to hair.”-The Journal of American History
"Herzig draws from history, sociology, racial studies, anthropology, and dermatology, and has absorbed views of theologians and pornographers. Much of what she has found is disturbing, and other findings are just funny, illustrating what a peculiar set of mammals we are."-Columbus Dispatch
"If you ever want proof that a thoughtful, careful scholar can follow a single strand of social life and come to see race, class, gender and all the complexity of society—this is the book to read."-Barbara Katz Rothman,author of Genetic Maps and Human Imaginations
"Herzig's history of the growing American antipathy to body hair, and the means used to deal with it, is full of such arresting moments. By its title, Plucked would seem to offer a volume of frothy fun (tinged with schadenfreude) about the high cost of fashion glory; it turns out to be eye-poppingly informative, thought-provoking and, almost against the author's will, frothy fun."-Maclean's Magazine
“Rebecca Herzig's thought-provoking book makes an important contribution to the history of the body, science, and culture in the United States. Herzig insightfully explores how Americans came to perceive body hair as a sign of sexual disorder and animal-like traits, as she traces the scientists and entrepreneurs who promoted hair removal, the feminists who reviled it, and the ordinary women and men who increasingly saw hairlessness as a sign of beauty and respectability. Plucked convincingly argues there is more at stake in shaving and waxing than simply removing hair; rather, these practices are bound up in our understanding of what it means to be human.”-Kathy Peiss,author of Hope in a Jar: The Making of America's Beauty Culture
“Herzig tracks the history of the commercialization of hair removal in industrial and post-industrial America. The book demonstrates persuasively that modern communications influenced fashions in hair removal as the U.S. moved from the era of ladies’ magazines to the broadcast age.” -American Historical Review
“A brilliant exploration of American preoccupations, irrationalities and inconsistencies in our perceptions of body hair. Rebecca Herzig will convince you that how we have hair on our bodies may not really matter, but how we have hair on our minds definitely does.”-Rachel P. Maines,author of The Technology of Orgasm: “Hysteria”, Vibrators, and Women’s Sexual Satisfaction
"In Plucked [Herzig] tells the seemingly obscure story of 'hair removal below the scalp line' throughout American history. In a very reader-friendly way we are shown the relevance of hairlessness in the terms of society, race, politics, fashion and economic development...This book is astonishing."-Portland Press Herald
“Well researched, well written, and knowledgeable, this work covers not only the history of hair removal in America but the social issues and movements associated with body hair, from cleanliness and race to free will. […] [T]he author excels at drawing out the larger implications of each dubious procedure and the pseudo-scientific theory associated with hair removal, from the turn of the 19th century to the present. Herzig carefully considers both sex and gender and never makes the assumption that white is the default. The book asks us to question what role advertising, science, and prejudice play in what we ‘know’ to be true. VERDICT: This would be a solid read for popular history buffs and fans of Lori Tharp and Ayana Byrd’s Hair Story or Bee Wilson’s Swindled.”-Library Journal
"Well researched, well written, and knowledgeable, this work covers not only the history of hair removal in America but the social issues and movements associated with body hair, from cleanliness and race to free will...the author excels at drawing out the larger implications of each dubious procedure and the pseudo-scientific theory associated with hair-removal, from the turn of the 19th century to the present."-Library Journal
"[A] fascinating new book tracing the history of hair removal since the days when it was done with such delightful devices as clamshell razors or recipes featuring frogs' blood or cat feces, is so very timely."-The Times (UK)
"Plucked's thorough investigation of hair removal's history makes this consuming read a wake-up call for those who haven't yet interrogated our shaving, plucking, threading, and lasering habits." -Bitch
About the Author
Rebecca M. Herzig is Christian A. Johnson Professor of Interdisciplinary Studies at Bates College. Her previous work includes Suffering for Science: Reason and Sacrifice in Modern America and, with Evelynn Hammonds, The Nature of Difference: Sciences of Race in the United States from Jefferson to Genomics.
Most helpful customer reviews
8 of 8 people found the following review helpful.
If It Offends Thee Pluck It Out
By takingadayoff
Expecting a history of how the ancients removed their hair (you never see the Ancient Romans or Mayans with beards, do you?), I found that Plucked: A History of Hair Removal deals with that topic pretty neatly in the first few chapters. Historian Rebecca Herzig then moves on from the mundane of how body hair was removed until modern times (waxing, tweezing, burning), to how and why it has been removed for the past hundred years or so.
The ancients have nothing on us moderns for hair removal methods. Herzig describes early 20th century x-ray treatments for removing hair from the face, a painful and largely unregulated procedure. Radiation turned out to be a less than optimal solution to excess body hair, but as the century and science progressed, hormone therapy became the next craze in exfoliation. As fashions in clothing and hairlessness changed, laser treatment (also painful and sometimes unsafe) emerged. As the 21st century dawned, Brazilian waxing became as common as tattoos and another painful beauty routine was introduced.
Herzig discusses attitudes, science, advertising, the money angle (doctors found that specializing in laser procedure was more lucrative and easier than family practice, for instance). She doesn't ignore men -- although they have only recently begun tending to body hair other than facial in recent years, it's become almost a given that men will do some "manscaping."
Plucked is an academic look at hair removal, but it's entirely readable and fascinating for a general reader. Plenty to ponder as you tweeze your brows or undergo the agony of a bikini wax.
(Thanks to NetGalley for a digital review copy.)
5 of 5 people found the following review helpful.
fascinating
By She Treads Softly
Plucked: A History of Hair Removal by Rebecca M. Herzig is a highly recommended, fascinating look at the history of hair removal in the United States.
I am so glad a Rebecca Herzig didn't listen to her detractors and that she pursued writing this compelling history of hair removal. Plucked covers the various ways people have removed unwanted body hair, with the main focus on the U. S. In the U. S. today the deliberate removal of body hair is a widespread practice that is taken for granted, but the now seemingly conventional and commonplace act of removing body hair to obtain smooth skin is not even a century old. At the same time forced hair removal has been called torture and abuse (like for the detainees at Guantánamo) throughout history. Plucked also covers the changing social and cultural aspects of hair removal.
Plucked is well researched and well written. While it is not a complete, thorough examination of every aspect of the history of hair removal, it is short, concise and entertaining enough to appeal to a wide audience as well as those who enjoy history texts.
Contents:
Introduction: Necessary Suffering
The Hairless Indian: Savagery and Civility before the Civil War
“Chemicals of the Toilette”: From Homemade Remedies to a New Industrial Order
Bearded Women and Dog-Faced Men: Darwin’s Great Denudation
“Smooth, White, Velvety Skin”: X-Ray Salons and Social Mobility
Glandular Trouble: Sex Hormones and Deviant Hair Growth
Unshaven: “Arm-Pit Feminists” and Women’s Liberation
“Cleaning the Basement”: Labor, Pornography, and Brazilian Waxing
Magic Bullets: Laser Regulation and Elective Medicine
“The Next Frontier”: Genetic Enhancement and the End of Hair
Conclusion: We Are All Plucked
Acknowledgments, Notes, Index
Disclosure: My Kindle edition was courtesy of New York University Press for review purposes.
3 of 3 people found the following review helpful.
Hair Razing
By Rob Hardy
We are mammals, and so by definition we have hair. We aren’t the only mammals who groom ourselves, but we are the only ones who remove our hair with such resolve. We have used razors made of clamshells or of stainless steel, tweezers, wax, lasers, electrolysis, and chemicals. Such multifaceted resolve in any other arena would be a fit subject for academic study, but hair removal? In her introduction to _Plucked: A History of Hair Removal_ (New York University Press), historian Rebecca M. Herzig writes, “The whole topic of body hair, I have learned, strikes many people as not merely tedious but also uncouth, even downright repulsive. Several previous reviewers of this work suggested that hair removal is simply too repellent to merit scholarly attention.” She says that a famous sociologist, when he asked her what she was working on, upon hearing the reply, turned his chair away and huffed, “Well, I suppose everyone has to work on something.” It’s a good thing Herzig ignored the criticisms; her book is full of pertinent and odd findings, and although it has plenty of references and footnotes, it is funny and entertaining.
This is mostly a story of women and their body hair. Hair on women’s legs and faces meant something, although the newly-designated sexologists around the turn of the last century disagreed on what. Hairy women (and somehow not men) were throwbacks to some primitive forebear; ideas like this were harnessed to promote commercial hair removal. Some of the methods of hair removal discussed here were brutal, and even deadly. “Punching,” for instance, involved a tiny cylindrical knife jammed through the skin around the shaft of a hair. “Punching,” deadpans Herzig, “was never a particularly popular method of hair removal.” Removing hairs from animal carcasses was a bottleneck process in butchering, until alkalis, soda ash, arsenic, and more were used to dissolve the hair. It wasn’t long after that such chemicals were tried on women. Commercial versions came out, and some were so caustic that they took skin away with hairs. Medical journals included stories of the lethality of such preparations. Some contained deadly thallium. Dangerous depilatory creams were one of the reasons the Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act of 1938 was passed. There were X-ray removal techniques; in the early twentieth century, physicians stopped using them and commercial practitioners caught onto the boon. There were hundreds of such x-ray clinics, all bragging about how scientific they were. When eventually such clinics were outlawed, there were back-alley versions. Waxes became popular after World War I, and there are now thousands of waxes available, many of which are based on petroleum waste and do not have to be extensively tested since they are not swallowed. Some people consider laser treatment the gold standard; the laser light is absorbed by the hair bulb, is converted to heat, and the heat destroys the bulb. It sounds simple, but it is far from painless, and some clinics offer pre-laser lidocaine or intravenous sedatives. Physicians who offered laser hair removal do so at least in part because it is a cash-only business, not covered by insurance or health maintenance organizations.
Herzig draws from history, sociology, racial studies, anthropology, and dermatology, and has absorbed views of theologians and pornographers. Much of what she has found is disturbing, and other findings are just funny, illustrating what a peculiar set of mammals we are. A depression-era ad quoted here said, “Freedom from Unwanted Hair Opens the Gates to Social Enjoyments That Are Forever Closed to Those So Afflicted.” Onward and forever: Freedom.
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